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Buying a kitten
The Northern Maine Coon Breeder’s Ring
strongly recommends that you purchase your kitten from a breeder
registered with a reputable cat club. All our breeders register their
kittens with the General Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF). This is to
protect you and your kitten.
Quick Links on this page :
Choosing a Kitten
First you need to decide if you want a pet only or do you wish to show
your pet. Then whether you want a boy or girl, both are equally
affectionate but males tend to be larger. Either should be neutered
between 5 to 9 months or on the advice of your breeder. If you wish to
breed, and this should not to be undertaken with out some detailed
knowledge of the breed, discuss this with your breeder. Most breeders
aim to promote the breed characteristics and temperament. Be aware that
little money, if any, is made from a litter of kittens once stud fees,
feeding, heating, vet fees and advertising is paid. Also expect to pay a
little more for a potential show cat and substantially more for a kitten
with the potential for breeding quality kittens.
All members of the Northern Breeder’s Ring will give advice on showing
your kitten and help if you are considering breeding.
Visiting a breeder
Most breeders
will want to meet the prospective owner before agreeing to sell them a
kitten. On your first visit, the breeder should give advice and point
out what you should look for in a Maine Coon. You may be asked to wash
your hands before handling a kitten. You should expect to see the
breeder’s adult cats and also the queen and her full litter if under the
age of 12 weeks. Watching them play will give you a good idea of the
temperament. Look for a kitten that is inquisitive
and friendly. If you are shown just one kitten
avoid the purchase.
Points to look for:
*The kitten
should look clean and healthy with no sign of a pot belly (sign of
worms).
*The eyes should
be clean and bright with no signs of a discharge and no third eyelid
(haw) showing at
the inner corner.
*The ears should
be spotlessly clean with no black grit-like particles evident (signs of
ear mites).
*There should be
no discharge from the nose.
*Finally
there should be no yellow staining under the tail (sign of diahorrea).
Collecting your kitten
Try to arrange
to collect your kitten at a weekend or when you have a few days off,
this will allow you plenty of time to settle the kitten and start the
bonding process.
Your breeder
will explain what will be needed to settle your kitten into it’s new
home, if you already have a pet at home then your breeder will be able
to explain the best way to settle the newcomer into the household. The
breeders on this site are always happy to give advice and love to hear
how their kittens are settling in. Its a good idea to bring a blanket or
similar item with your resident pets scent on, this will transfer the
scent of your pet onto the kitten whilst travelling, it will help your
pet with integration.
These are the documents you should
receive as demanded by the GCCF:
*Pedigree with
minimum of three generations.
*GCCF pink
registration slip for the kitten. This is your proof of purchase.
*Vaccination
certificate for Feline Panleucopenia, Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and
Feline
Calicivirus. Your kitten may have had additional vaccinations but these
are
not compulsory.
These documents are optional but
advisable :
*Six weeks free
insurance issued by ‘Pet Plan’.
*A list of the
foods eaten by your kitten and worming
details.
*Document with conditions
of sale, which depends on whether or not the kitten is sold as
pet only
or for breeding, which you may be asked to sign.
Arriving
Home
When you arrive
home, ensure the house is secure, it is advisable to settle the kitten
in the one room with it’s bed, litter tray, water and food so that it
gets used to it’s new environment. It is very important the kitten is
aware where it’s litter, water and food is. Handle gently, take the
kitten from the basket and show it the water and litter tray, before
letting it explore its new surroundings.
At first the kitten may
be a little nervous, loud noise may frighten it, so it is important the
children understand the need to keep quiet. Babies and toddlers are best
in another room until the kitten has gained a little confidence.
If another
animal already lives in the house, introductions are best left until the
next day when the kitten will feel more secure. Your breeder will be
able to advise you of a settling in regime.
Dependent on
the age and type of pet you have at home the settling in can take a
little time you need to be patient and take your time, kittens tend to
be accepted quiet quickly.
Feeding
Your Kitten
Your kitten will sleep often, this is when it grows and recharges it’s
batteries try not to keep disturbing it for your pleasure.
Any changes to the breeder's
recommendation should be made gradually to prevent a stomach upset. A
varied diet will prevent boredom, food fads ("my cat only eats fresh
chicken" etc.) and ensure good health.
Poor diets can cause health problems,
keeping your cat active will help with appetite.
Because kittens have tiny
stomachs they need small,
regular
frequent meals when young. At three months they require four meals a
day, gradually increasing in size and reducing in frequency until they
are eating two meals a day, at about a year old.
1.
Tinned Pet Food.
Tinned foods are formulated to provide a
balanced diet, but certain foods can be very rich and can cause stomach
upset, try and vary your cats diet so it doesn’t get bored and picky,
any change should be done slowly.
2.
Dried Pet Foods.
Dried foods are a complete food, some
cats will prefer this to tinned, Breed specific foods are available.
Maine Coon 31 is specifically made as large kibbles to promote chewing
and help promote strong clean teeth and digestion in adults.
3.
Fresh Meat.
Chicken, lamb and beef.
Must be cooked to kill parasites and
bacteria, your breeder will be able to advise
4.
Fresh Fish.
Must be cooked. White fish is especially
good, but feeding too much of certain types, such as tuna, can cause a
serious Vitamin E deficiency. Avoid too many prawns as these can cause
stomach infection
5.
Milk
.
Do not give normal milk to
kittens/adults. Use a cat milk or ask your breeder.
6. Always take your breeders
advice re feeding and type of foods your kitten has been used to, try
not to over feed as a fat cat is an unhealthy cat and may develop
ailments in later life.
Fresh Water should be available at all times and litter trays should be cleaned
regularly.
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